Located closer to Africa than Italy, Sardinia’s turquoise
sea and white sandy beaches rival the tropics. Sant'Antioco & San Pietro,
off the coast of Southwestern Sardinia, are charming islands as yet unspoiled
by too much tourist development. The seaside resort of Santa Teresa di Gallura
offers all the attractions of the coast without the sometimes-soulless glitz of
the Costa Smeralda. Further east, Palau & Arcipelago di la Maddalena are
pretty laidback, too: the archipelago itself comprises a national park with
loads of island-hopping opportunities.
Away from the coast, the scenery can be similarly stunning
with a pastoral quilt of forested mountain peaks, valleys of citrus groves and
pastures of happily grazing cattle and sheep. In contrast, the urban scene can
be disappointing.
Some towns are, frankly, dull and depressing with
breeze-block buildings and graffiti. Others, like medieval Bosa in the west,
are impossibly picturesque with their pink-and-golden buildings flanking the
river. Alghero, in Northern Sardinia, has a fascinating Catalan history (the
language is still spoken here) and a delightful old centre; the lively town of
Iglesias also retains an appealing Spanish legacy. Calgliari is historic and
cosmopolitan at the same time, while the equally historic Oristano is quietly
elegant. Traditional culture thrives most vigorously in the heartland where the
elderly women are still draped in black; here tourists are rare – stared at –
but ultimately welcomed.
Across the landscape are scattered 7000 nuraghi, strange
conical stone fortresses seemingly built by a Sardinian Fred Flintstone.
Curious temples, tombs, mysterious menhirs and remains of entire Bronze Age
villages complete the prehistoric cartoon.
Sardinia distinguishes itself in the kitchen with hearty
pastas and a love for pungent local cheeses, like pecorino and smoked ricotta.
Sardinians also produce notable wines and a head-splitting firewater, filu e
ferru.
Avoid visiting during broiling, crowded July and August, as
well as in winter when the island goes into hibernation and many restaurants
and hotels are closed. The best times of the year to visit are in the spring,
when the wildflowers are in bloom, and during the early autumn when the
temperatures are still pleasantly warm and most of the tourists have left.
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